Shanghai 30s is beautiful: wood-panelled warmth in a stylish den, complete with sloping floors here and there, tasteful and occasionally daring artwork, boundless charm amplified by perfectly selected background music from bygone colonial times. The food on neighbouring tables sizzled as we enjoyed our Tsingtao beer duckling and Kung Pao prawns, washed down with jasmine tea. For an occasion, you might want to consider treating yourself to a bottle of fine wine; Ch Cissac at sub £30 is very reasonable for a restaurant. If you can stretch to it, you can have Opus One at £900+ or Ch Latour at a much loftier tariff. Tea was fine for us. Service was just right.