South Indian food is probably the world's best vegetarian cuisine, and at Radha Krishna Bhavan they certainly know their Idlis from their Uttappams. A splinter operation from the nearby Sreekrishna and aiming to capture the same mix of Indian exiles and local foodies, the menu is split into vegetarian and non-veggie options. Expect the usual delights, expertly cooked: Avial that is deliciously creamy with yoghurt and the same time tangy with tamarind and spices, light crispy dosai that are filled with perfectly spiced potatoes and onions, plus own made chutneys and pickles that are out of this world. Experts from Guy Diamond of 'Time Out' reviews Radha Krishna Bhavan. This is no new-wave Indian. The walls are papered with full-sized, '70s-style prints of sunsets over palm-fronded beaches, the furnishings are cheap. But the cooking rises far above the surroundings.
Keralian dishes are, of course the ones to go for. Thorans are the dry stir-fries of shredded vegetables, flavoured with curry leaves, mustard seeds and other spices; try the cabbage or beetroot thorans which defy any expectations of these dullest-of-dull ingredients. Of the wet curried dishes kalan is a favourite, the colour of turmeric with pieces of mango adding extra sweetness to the mild yoghurt sauce. Avial is as good as you would expect of this Keralian staple.
Then there are the dosais, idlis and dahi vadais - the breakfast and street foods of south India, which you now find from Drummond Street to Delhi. Of course, there are still chicken kurmas and lamb dansaks on the menu; but if you order these formula curries, you'll be missing out on some of the most interesting Indian dishes in London.
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